Merry Patter

Absentee-ism

2011-07-28T11:05:00.004-04:00

I seem to have been absent a lot lately. I have actually been in and out of hospital with various surgeries/biopsies both of my own and family members.
Mum has been in Niagara (where there is a severe C Difficile problem) for just over a month. She should be home tomorrow. Maisie has had her umbilical surgery repaired. That was a day procedure. Holy Hanna! how the little ones bounce back!
I am back in tomorrow for a more serious procedure that will keep me in for a couple of days. They really try not to keep you in for long anymore. This is more preventative than anything else. The cancerous changes so far have been contained. I will be quite nervuos until the pathology is back though.

In the meantime I have been making a lot of kid's hats and adult fascinators. Hopefuly I can get some pictures on here once I get back.
Til then...

Another attempt

2011-07-13T17:15:00.003-04:00

I tried free motion quilting before (not terribly successfully) and then did a lot of free motion embroidery recently. Then I found this blog ww.dontlooknow.typepad.com and HAD to try her pillow tutorial.

My result is above, which has my first attempt at free motion quilting. I have done embroidery but not quilting. I was quite rusty with the embroidery as well but it came back (to my not amazing previous level) by the time the pillow cover was done.

Thanks for the comments on the picture of me in my new dress. I have worn it often since then.

Dress

2011-07-03T18:52:00.003-04:00

Maisie and I with friend Barb at my son's grade 8 graduation.
This was the only year both of my children will be in the same school. By the time she starts highschool, he will have finished university.
I thought the ceremony was on Wednesday eve, but it was actually Tuesday so I had to miss the last class of my textile arts course. It was a frenzy trying to alter his trousers and get my dress finished. The skirt was from an outfit I made for a wedding a few years ago. It was kind of big and droppy as the skirt so I wore a black one. I cut and empire top and added the skirt to it but the hem hung longer at the back than front. Once I saw all the asymmetrical hemlines in fashion now I remembered the dress, pulled it out and finished it off just in time.

Happy Canada Day! Blogger will not let me upload anything- but I have a title!

2011-07-01T10:42:00.004-04:00

More Embroidery

2011-06-21T13:10:00.006-04:00

Layers of silk, organza and thread have gone from a swirly sky,

to this,and eventually to this.

I am going to add some beads as stamens in the centre poppy and stop. It has to be done at some point. Now I need to figure out how to finish it. This one is for my Mum, who just got out of some major surgery about an hour ago. All is well so far.

Hat Head part 2

2011-06-17T10:12:00.010-04:00

These photos have been taken on the hat forms that are shown in the last post.
I am mainly a garment sewer so I thought I would combine the two things. I free handed the vine and flower design then added a bead in teh centre of each flower. I thought it would be for me and I wanted subtle, but I don't wear a lot of beige or cream in the summer. Oops. Maybe I will try and black and white one. It might be easier if I do it before the hat is halfway constructed like these ones were.
This one has leaves that I made by cutting then singing the edges. I stitched them on a half completed hat and added a flower pin I had made. Voila! a perfect summer sunhat that can match any outfit. Maisie loves it!
These are for you Irene! I combined the stitching with a garment. A hat is a garment, isn't it?
Soon I will try to show myself in something I have made. Thanks Ruthie, Irene, Ann and Karen for your support.

Hat Head

2011-06-16T09:17:00.007-04:00

I did a bit more on trees and stuck it in a frame (loosely) for this pic. I might paint the sky a pale gray blue instead of white but am holding off to ruminate a while.

These are some hatforms I drew in free motion. I did about 7 of them but only a few are shown here. I have been painting them, then embroidering and embellishing them some more. Here are two in progress. The flesh was painted first, then the hat, then background. On the red hat the blue leaked onto the flesh. I had to run with it. I added a bit more flesh tone on her nose, but left the blue everywhere else.
Some more stitching and painting. I stitched in one leave on the side and tried to stamp two more but did not like the effect.

So I appliqued some silk leaves over top and added copper foil to them. I then added some gold and copper foils to the swirls on the left. I might add more. Taking a break on it for now.

This one reminds me of Nefertiti. You can see above I am adding some diagonal designs to try to mimic the hat in the sculpture. Not sure about it. Never sure though.

Free Motion

2011-06-15T13:30:00.004-04:00

I have always wanted to learn free motion embroidery. What I do is so tight and controlled and I wanted to loosen up. I have been taking a course in Textile Art at a local college and so have been doing a lot of free motion work lately.
I love it!
The trees are about 9x9" and aren't quite done yet. I roughly stitched in the scene, then loosely painted in the bushes, leaves and ground. The bushes and leaves were done with a technique using tiny snippets of silk held down with tulle. The foreground was stitched back and forth with shades of green. It wasn't until I added some deep green into the front that the depth was really created.
This one has more applique. I drew the design on the top and stithched it. I planned to use the reverse side as the right side but decided I wanted to elephant to face right, so I had to add the silk, stitch from the back and cut away the rest once it was all stitched. I am still playing with it. It probably should have been done with black bobbin thread as the white really shows. I want to paint the background and add more stitching and maybe some gold leaf.
I gave up trying to use my Husqvarna Mega Quilter,(which I LOVE for other things) and am using my Pfaff 1550. I had to buy a foot, but I have less tension problems than before.

Musings

2011-03-25T16:15:00.004-04:00

Lately, and by that I mean about two years, I have been sewing a lot of simple things. Smaller things like hats, scarves and other accessories as well as children's items, some pillows, curtains, aprons, purses.
I haven't had a lot of extra time, but that is not the main reason. I am big and not happy about it. It is hard to dress a body you are not happy with. Nothing looks flattering to my eyes. However, none of my older clothes are going to look flattering to anyone else either. Really, it shouldn't matter. No one cares what I wear. I am not a celebrity or public figure. I really admire women like Carolyn and Angie, who are larger than your average model, but dress to please themselves. They are well dressed and I am not. I really need to look to them as examples. I don't have to be happy with my weight, but I really should tart up this old body to look the best it can now while working on that aspect.

Teach Yourself to Sew: How to Sew a Bias-strip Scarf - Threads

2011-03-04T20:58:00.000-05:00

Teach Yourself to Sew: How to Sew a Bias-strip Scarf - Threads

Oops

2011-03-04T20:52:00.007-05:00

OK, sorry about that last post. I was interupted while I tried to write it.

I love scarves. I especially love scarves that are a little bit different, a little bit extra. The ones that call to me are usually textured, but soft and almost always very colourful.
The technique of encasing fabric and stitching over water soluble film has been covered at Threads Magazine in the post above.
This one was one of my first from a few years ago. I gave it to a weaver from the Artist Educator course I took last year. She gasped when she saw it so I knew she really appreciated it.

I usually do bias strips either close together (below) or a little more open (above) and add ribbons and yarns into the mix. Lately I have been experimenting with shapes and more free hand embroidery and the scarf with blue swirls and the green one with pink roses (two posts below now)are the result.
This is a recent scarf with silk bias strips, yarn and organza ribbon. It is dense but very soft.

Lace Scarves

2011-03-04T17:22:00.002-05:00

Made using silk, yarns, soluble stabilizer and LOTS of thread!

Oliver and S

2011-02-23T16:50:00.008-05:00

This is a cute little top made with an Oliver and S pattern called 2+2 in a gorgeous Kaffe Fassett print cotton from Hyggeligt Fabrics , which is a fabric store here in town. There was a sample in the store and Maisie insisted on buying the ingredients so I could make her one EXACTLY THE SAME! She rarely asks me to make her anything so I obliged. I like the top, but the construction was a bit odd. I didn't love the rectangular patch that covers up some funky cutting/gathering going on. Maybe it was just because it was my first attempt.

I made my own pattern from my blocks in a similar style. I made a fully faced yoke across the front and could not resist adding a cuffed sleeve with gathering at the sleeve band. I had this fairy print cotton and a co-ordinating polka dot so I made it up as a dress. I also piped in with a mini-pom pom piping I had. She wanted the pink ribbon bow at the centre front yoke seam (but I don't like it, shhh).

The cuffed sleeves use a method in a book I have had forever. I will find it and post the name. I think it is "The Busy Mother's Guide to Sewing Children's Clothes". There are a lot of tips in it, but I still think I am too busy for many of them.

This is the start of the second top version. This one is my pattern and is in a toile with gingham trim. I think I used the Oliver and S capped sleeve though.

Little clothes give such immediate gratification that I cannot reisist doing some once in a while.
They finish so much faster than the embroidered beasts I usually work on!

Back

2011-02-18T11:42:00.005-05:00

Thanks Irene. I need a bit more time to decide, but am leaning that way too.

The jacket back. This went a LOT quicker than the other pieces. It gets a lot speedier with some practice.

I tried to photograph the sketch but it wouldn't come out right.

The Right Front

2011-02-16T18:49:00.006-05:00

Tearaway stabilizer on back with stitching done.On the positive applique I stitched just inside the lines, on the negative applique I stitched just outside. This way the finished lines are close to the original design lines once the fabrics are cut away.

Closer up picture of the fronts.

This is the original front on the left (on the right when viewing here) with a new right (on left).

To salvage the silk I satin stitched around the edges, which added a nice bright pinky-purple like to the design. It still didn't save the silk from fraying so I also embroidered around the flowers in a blanket sitch. On the newer side I only hand stitched the silk so there is no satin stitching there. It is a bit duller. I haven't finished the hand embroidery yet.

Fronts on the dummy. I am not sure if the design is done here. I originally had more leaves and another flower on the lower left (shown right) side.Original sketch of design

I don't know- am I done or should I add more applique?

Making Another Jacket

2011-02-11T13:33:00.003-05:00

This is the jacket front with the work changed up a bit.

Another photo. I have added the darker green to one leaf and the purple wool to both leaves. I satin stitched around the silk petals, but had to do a button hole stitch also. I did a chain and lazy daisy in green in the centre of the flower.

While I was on the phone I began the other side. It went a lot quicker and I was pleased with the results. That is, until I tried to lay them side by side. I have done two right fronts! So I guess I will be making two jackets.

When I tell my students that they cannot make a mistake I haven't already made, I am not kidding!

Positive and Negative Applique and Why You Should Do a Sample First

2011-02-10T13:10:00.006-05:00

Everything is a learning experience. I have been using a lot of boiled wool fabric lately and wanted to do something like this for a while. Indecision has postponed it for months. I decided to jump in without sampling. If worse came to worst I can recut one front panel, right? Boiled wool is cheap, right? Oh, yeah: it isn't. Lots of oops in this post.

Here is the design drawn onto a lightweight embroidery stabilizer. I placed it on the wrong side of the fabric with most the fabrics layered on top, then finally the boiled wool jacket piece. I should have layered in stages. The velvet frays a lot and not prettily, so I wanted in under the wool. The silk frays in an attractive manner, so I was fine with it on top. However, I needed to make sure that no velvet edges were seen at all, even under the leaf edges so I had to trim out the velvet after the outer edge of the flower was cut. Oops.

(This placing of the stabilizer on the wrong side was a tip from Claudine at Adventures in Couture, who has been doing a lot of reverse applique lately.)

The silk dupionni was laid on top of the work. I did not want any boiled wool on the flower. The stitching was done in a straight stich and free motion foot on my Mega Quilter.

Leaves were stitched in sections. The outer was stitched forst, then the wool trimmed away then the inner lines were stitched and trimmed.

Three types of leaves. Another oops. I don't really like the lower leaves without the wool on them. Why didn't I do a sample again?

Also, there should be two rows of stitching around the slik. It is trimmed too closely for the silk not to fray away.

I think this piece is salavage-able. I will try to add some wool to the lower leaves and do something extra around the silk. I had planned to add some hand work anyway. We shall see.

applique pictures

2011-01-03T15:34:00.005-05:00

My friend and neighbour has a business where she electronically puts children's artwork onto various products like shoe and tote bags, aprons, etc.

She has made a few mistakes over the years and to salvage some of the product she asked me to make up some appliques and sew them over the previous artwork. Here are some of the pictures I did.

She didn't like these flowers so I did the garden ones below. They were more to her liking and went onto some tote bags.

Foxes and elephants. These went onto shoe bags. Hard to sew!

Frogs and Elephants.

I still have the frogs. She didn't like the textured fabric on the froggy bodies. Oh, well.

I used various fabrics for these. No purchase was made to salvage the waste! Some of the stitching was free motion straight stitch and some was satin stitch. I still have the floral on purple and the frogs so I need to think of something to do with them. Suggestions welcome!

Christmas

2010-12-24T09:40:00.000-05:00

Been so busy. Went Christmas shopping yesterday. First time.
Felt like a guy.

a Bit of Whimsy

2010-10-25T20:45:00.007-04:00

I was able to attend the Creativ Festival in Toronto on the weekend. It was a bit of a surprise. I like to have a plan of attack and since I hadn't expected to go I did not feel organized. I was able to spend nearly an hour there and did a good runaround to try to get an overview of the trends in sewing nowadays. Sometimes working in your basement and focussing on one thing completely blots everything else from your consciousness.

I picked up two books and some yarns that co-ordinates well with other yarns already in m possession. Also a pile of things for work, like trims threads, interfacing and leather tape. They don't really count though, do they?

On the way out I saw Kenneth King pulling a red wheelie suitcase. I thought it was a MAJOR celebrity sighting until my husband picked me up. He had seen the Dalai Lama get out of his car about 10 feet away and go into the Royal York Hotel.

I still think my sighting wins. It was KENNETH KING! Also there wasn't a pane of glass between us. That makes it better, right?

Little Ones

2010-10-22T22:25:00.006-04:00

First is my crazy girl on her first day of school. No point just standing at the door smiling in your uniform when you can be hamming it up like this.

Next is my second tiny dress. Actually this is the smallest Irish Dance dress I have ever made. The dancer is a petite four year old. The skirt is from a mis-cut in the Spring. I thought it was too small to use for anything at all. The day after I ruined a piece of expensive fabric from Dubai I recieved a call from a Mum looking for a tiny dress. Isn't that the perfect co-incidence?
The rest was loosely based on Snow White. The big ovals were created for giant rhinestones that the mother ordered from the US and put on herself. The little one did well at her first big competition too. I even have a photos of her wearing a sash and on a podium!

Machine embroidery

2010-09-13T16:47:00.007-04:00

I finally have the machine back and it seems to be running well now. It has cost a fortune, but will be worth it is this really is a good repair.

This is the first project I have worked on with it.

It is a silk valance with a hand beaded edge using a glass pearl and sparkly small bead. I like the edging.

The fabric is a silk duoppioni that the client supplied. It marks like the Dickens. I had to use a cloth on the wheel of the machine, wear gloves and still got oily smudges on the first embroidery. I tried to get them out with a stain removing dauber but it left other marks as it dried so I washed the whole thing with Sunlight dish liquid. Here it is wet on the left and the replacement on the right. You can see the wax line of where the fold backs will be on the wet one. The silk was fused twice; once with a soft weft insertion interfacing, then with fusible fleece.

I am not sure about the beading on the design though. I tried stitching the design in beads, couching it and tambour stitching them it. Finally I satin stitched the design and added beads over the stitching. It isn't completed yet. I will bead it all if I decide to use it this way but I am not sure what to think. Any opinions? Should I keep beading or leave it plain?

(Sorry, Blogger keeps rotating the one picture.)

Machinery and dresses

2010-08-27T10:08:00.007-04:00

Here is the last dress I made on my old embroidery machine. I have an industrial zig zag that has been modified to be used for satin stitch. It needed a new hook and the repairman "forgot" to put it in. He said he thought it best to try to save me money by not changing it yet. This is the same repairman who told me it would probably need a new hook every year or so. I have paid $300 to get it fixed so far and it hasn't been fixed yet. Now it needs another shop service, hook and house call, so another $350 or so. Nope, he doesn't warranty his work, why do you ask? Apparently is was a silly question when I asked. Thanks for saving me some $$ Tom.

This is the first dress made on the new machine. It was a very used, but very well taken care of, industrial darning machine. It goes to 12mm wide and has no feet or feed dogs. I have a lot of practising to do with it to get it right. It hold so many possibilities for free motion embroidery so I am quite excited about it. The best part is that is cost $100, so 1/3 of the cost of my non-repair so far!

dress contruction pics

2010-06-26T19:50:00.004-04:00

These are the only construction pics I can upload right now. The dress was made from guipure lace over satin and lined with a lightweight silk shantung. It was an outdoor summer wedding on a very hot day and it didn't rain (much). The bride is slim hipped and larger in the shoulders and bust, so she chose a simple sheath with a bit of a mermaid flare at the knee.

Blogger keeps freezing on me so I will end here.

A wedding dress

2010-06-26T14:40:00.004-04:00

I had a bride this Spring! I love doing bridal, but haven't had much time for it lately.

Catching Up

2010-06-08T17:07:00.006-04:00

I began a 6 week Artist/Educator Foundations course on May 1. I also work full time and have small/medium kids so I didn't really have time for this. However, I am SO glad I took it!
I have learned so much about myself, about art and about working with school aged learners.
The entire thing was a whirlwind of complications; many self created.
I had applied for the arts/ed course and was placed on a waiting list. It was to start on the day of the local feis (Irish Dance competition for the civilians) which I was willing to miss to take the classes. I was disappointed to be waitlisted but, because I was geared up to take a course (any course apparently), I then signed up for a Friday/Saturday full day bra making class. I paid in full and then found out I was in the first course. So I had the first Saturday booked with a feis, a bra making class and the first day of a six week course.
I don't remember much since then, but I have two new bras and a pile of new friends!

Bright and shiny

2010-05-02T19:08:00.002-04:00

Colourful, creative, poofy, sparkly, loud, garish (well, sometimes), fun, happy, pretty. over the top...
How else would you describe these?

Busy!

2010-04-22T22:50:00.004-04:00

The feis season is picking up! Here are two more dresses done.

This one was shipped, so no pictures of it on the dancer yet.

This dancer requested a "Garden dress"

This one has a shawl made in the same technque as the recent scarves.

My birthday is coming up and for it I get a day to myself to make myself something.

For a mum who works fulltime and has a pre-school child this is heaven itself!

p.s. the hat wasn't accepted into the show. Oh, well...

Leaves Falling Overhead

2010-04-12T11:43:00.006-04:00

Update- the hat was delivered to a Guild member who is transporting a carload to Fergus today to be juried for Threadworks2010. This is my first entry into any juried show. It doesn't matter to me if it is accepted. Of course, it would be great if it was, I just really wanted to get something done for the show.
Rosalind suggested the name I used: Leaves Falling Overhead. Cute and clever, Rosalind. I love it, thank you!

Leaf Hat

2010-04-12T00:19:00.012-04:00

Crowning glory Trees

Trunks Lining in shot silk

Tam on a ham!

This hat was made in the theme of "Trees". I was very literal in my interpretation but it has some subtle Canadian symbolism thrown in. The dark base has copper flecks is represents the Canadian Shield and our natural resources which form the base of our geography and our economy, the top represents our society's basis on a cultural mosaic, and throughout the leaves and lining the top is a red/turquoise shot silk that represents the French/English union that our country was founded on.

I used the scarf technique of bias strips of silk and wool to represent tree trunks and the leaf applique for the tree top. I hoped to put it in a juried show but am not sure if I will since I missed my shipping deadline. I thought it was due next weekend. Ooops.

I am trying to reach a Guild member who is travelling with a car load of items to drop off but cannot find her email.

Now to think of a name. "Slip into Fall" is the current favourite.

I love the name Rosalind has suggested- Leaves Falling Overhead- and so it has been named. Thanks Rosalind!

Leaves

2010-04-11T13:58:00.007-04:00

I am working on an applique design of autumn leaves. The plan is to make a beret type hat with it.

Cut out and laid out.

Half stitched. I used a satin stitch in a toning burgundy/brown colour.

Stitching done.

I think this would be a gorgeous pillow. The problem is that kids and cats sit on them and lie on them and sometimes even spit up on them (mainly the cats nowadays). Hopefully a hat will be treated with more respect. Although, knowing both my kids and my cats you never can tell.

Scarves

2010-04-09T11:02:00.010-04:00

Thanks to everyone for your recent comments. My little girl really is growing up. She is learning to read and has a large personality. She takes up a lot of time. I am trying to enjoy it now because I know I will miss it when she starts school in September. I can't believe how soon that is!
A friend pointed out that I haven't done much for myself lately, and took my child for a while to give me a bit of time to do so. These scarves are the result.
I had a lot of bias strips left over from all the Irish dresses we have made over the years. I decided to serge them together in similar colourways and made some scarves. I used three threads on the serger set in a really close stitch and pulled on the strips as the went through to create a ripply effect.

This one is shades of purple with some pinkish purples and serged in purple. It photographs very blue. There are a few poly satins, some acetate satins, silk, metallic silk and some poly satin back shantungs. In this one I made long strips with many colours in each then serged them together.

The turquoise one is my favourite. I have given it to a friend. She looks after Maisie every Thursday for me for free so I try to make her something every week or so as a thank you.

The fabrics are a lot of acetate satins in teals and turquoise with some silks and some metallic silks as well. I made long strips of one colour, then serged all the strands together. It was very stripe-y so I cut the scarf at 45 degrees and serged it back together, making sure the stripes didn't match up. I like the effect.

The last one is I cut from leftover velvet burnout on chiffon yardage. I cut bias strips in 2" and 1.5" widths. I serged the strips together to make long strands, then serged the strips together, alternating between right and wrong sides. I also alternated the stitching between strands so that it showed on one row, but was underneath on the next.

Once I had all the rows together I cut them apart on a 45 degree angle in both directions and serged them back together, flipping each piece so the right side strip was butted against a wrong side strip. The chiffon tended to pull out so I had to reduce the density of the stitch to prevent that. I plan to add some beading to them in the lower 4-8" or so.

Maisie's Easter Dress

2010-04-04T17:10:00.006-04:00

This is the dress I made Maisie for Easter, sans the brown waist ribbon.

This is what she wore: a purchased dress from Nana.

Take a bow, Maisie!

Happy Easter everyone!

A pillow

2010-03-27T13:41:00.008-04:00

A friend had a medical procedure this week involving needles in her back and a lot of bedrest. I don't know how it went yet.

I decided to make her a pillow as a get well wish. She loves birds on things so I appliqued some linen and made her this pillow. I fused the linen with a synthetic interfacing to help ward off creases and then underlined the front secion with flannel for some body. It has an envelope style back.

I had an extra, so there is one in the Etsy store as well.

More pictures

2010-03-22T09:16:00.003-04:00

Interior of bag. For some reason blogspot wants this rotated.

I have a black bag started, but the black suede is not as deep in value as the brown was compared to the leather so I am searching for another option. I saved the negative cuts and stitched those down on some brown suede. It created a very different look to the positive cut.

Another Irish Dance dress

2010-03-19T21:56:00.003-04:00

This one has a skirt in poly shantung rather than plain satin. I used a 4 thread rolled hem on my serger to create the turquoise line. The previous dress shown was serged over a ribbon. This one is more balanced from front to back of the ruffles. This aspect is important as both sides show.

Purse kick

2010-03-17T23:33:00.005-04:00

So I guess I am on a purse kick now. This one is my first all leather purse. I often use leather trim but have never made an all leather bag.
This isn't a great photo so I will need to take more as soon as I can. The bag has a large front pocket with appliqued leather on suede. It is stitched with a straight stitch set at a 3 on my Husqvarna Mega Quilter. I had to leave long tails on all the interior shapes, pull through the threads and tie them off before cutting. Fortunately many shapes began and ended at the edge.
I tried to cut all of the shapes leaving the negative ones in undamaged condition. I am not sure if it will work, but I want to try using them as a negative applique.

Some handbags

2010-03-15T11:20:00.011-04:00

I have been very busy with work sewing and no time for personal sewing, but NEEDED to make something else. I saw a purse style I like at Anthropologie http://www.anthropologie.com/ and tried to emulate the style. The purse is called "Flash-And-Fete Clutch" and I cannot seem to link directly to it.

This one is made from tapestry fabric and lined in a snake embossed synthetic suede. Licarrit from Artisan's Square used to have a tutorial on her blog, but I couldn't find it so I had to wing it.
It has a zipp closure and a snap to hold the flap down. I put a topstitched fisheye dart in the underside to encourage it to flip over. I used a heavy cotton fuse inside and it is very firm. I went softer on the next one.
I put a pocket in the back, using the same fabrics.

Then I had to go and get all applique-ish with the design.

This one is a bit shorter, more like the original from Anthropologie. I used a synthetic sude in turquoise over brown cotton. I did this as reverse applique, but didn't love the result so I satin stitched over the edges.
I was going to applique the entire front, but realized half the design would be covered by the flap, so I cut the piece and used part on the base and part on the flap. They kind of line up with a little gap between.

It is lined in Kasha sating and there is a banded pocket in this one as well. I interfaced every piece with a soft interfacing, but would go a bit firmer next time. It takes a few to get it right.
It seems a bit three bears-ish. The first was too hard, the second was too soft, perhaps next will be the baby bear one and be just right.

Just so I am posting something

2010-02-03T22:26:00.004-05:00

I have been working as much as I can. Monday was the first day I actually felt better and Tuesday/Wednesday saw that trend continue.

I finished this dress today in order for it to be worn at the All Irelands in Killarney in the next week or so.

I had a great time adding rhinestones, especially to the sleeves. The dancer looked lovely in it as well, but I only have pics with her face in them so I won't post any yet.

Thanks

2010-01-25T17:24:00.004-05:00

Thanks everyone, for your supportive comments. The keyhole surgery definitely IS much better than getting the big slice. I cringe at the thought of that again.
My mum has just left after staying nearly a week to help out. She is still going strong at 78. She got all my laundry caught up and left a well stocked refrigerator. Thanks Mum.
The little one is in daycare tomorrow so I hope to get some sewing done. I have someone arranged to take her there so no slipping on the treacherous walkways for me. I would like to keep these stitches where they are for a few more days still. Thanks David.
Many friends have dropped off something a meal or baked goods and or called to make sure everything is OK. Thanks everyone.
I do appreciate the help.

When it rains...

2010-01-22T16:45:00.003-05:00

...it pours.
I am just back from hospital after undergoing emergency surgery to remove my gall bladder.
I hadn't a clue I had problems, but from the state of the organ it must have been flaring up for months. The surgery was laproscopic and took four times longer than the surgeon anticipated.
Now I have a drainage reservoir coming out from a tube on my side so I will not be fitting anything on myself for a while.
It is a good thing I have a few dresses booked.

latest

2010-01-13T23:37:00.003-05:00

This one nearly killed me, might have saved me. They have just sent me the nicest email with this photo! The fit looks great. Yay!

Thanks

2010-01-13T10:43:00.003-05:00

Thanks everyone, for your support. I am sitting beside the same window now with a blast of cold, fresh air on me. Funny thing is that I could smell something I associated with a cow barn and never put it together with gas.
I am desperately trying to get a dress completed. This is the dress that pushed me over the edge with the symptoms. Despite it being for a lovely girl and family, I will be glad to get this one done and gone.

Classical Gas?

2010-01-10T14:45:00.008-05:00

This is an unusual post. I named the blog" Merry Patter" quite deliberately. It is a place to put happy thoughts and leave off descriptions of the outside pressures we all must deal with. I have a problem with depression in a mild way and I did not plan to write about that.
My posting has been sporadic for some months. I have been unable to cope in general very well. It took an enourmous effort to fulfill my contractual obligations regarding my work and just cooking supper seemed a daunting task. I have been exhausted, nauseous, befuddled and overwhelmed. I have been concerned about mental illness, brain tumours, Alzheimers disease. Testing didn't show any such thing. Anything at all in fact.
Part of this I blamed on my daily debilitating headaches. They have been very hard to cope with. I get migraines with barometric pressure changes, generally before it rains. Once the weather breaks, the headache does as well. With all the rain we had this summer, I thought that was the cause, but the headaches never broke.
Funny thing is that I didn't have them over Christmas while at my brother's house, but they started again when I returned home. I guess I should get away more.
My husband noticed a bad smell on our veranda on Thursday. I called the gas company who sent someone out immediately. Sure enough, there was a gas leak right outside a window about four feet from my computer caused by a faulty washer. He told me it had been going on since before summer (someone thought they could smell something last summer, but I couldn't smell it and didn't call the gas company). Once he fixed it he discovered another leak.
The window is generally open at least a crack even in bad weather to disperse the fumes from my adhesives. Natural gas is an asphyxiant. I have been depriving my brain of oxygen for months now. It has made it difficult to get my work done and then I would need to stay here longer to work on it, thus perpetuating the problem.
I haven't had a headache in days. It is a good feeling. I hope this means I can become productive again.
Thanks for all the comments. Ruthie- those were some good thoughts you put down about next time I can't focus, although I hope that being unfocussed in general will become a thing of the past from now on!

Whatever the heck I want

2010-01-06T15:59:00.003-05:00

Sometimes I think I should just do whatever the heck I want. I never do though because there is always something I should be doing. The problem is that I then don't get anything done. Example- I have a custom order to complete. I want some distance from it, but don't want to get off schedule. I need to get it done.
Is it done? No. Have I worked on it? Not much.
What have I done instead? I have made tea, looked at the computer, spoken to two clients and one supplier, made tea, eaten chocolate, made soup, planned dinner and am about to go fetch yet another cup of tea.
If I had decided I would make myself a coat today I am sure I would have worked on that. In the end I have no coat and no dress and at $44/day for childcare I really should be getting something done.
Now off to get tea. The upside of all of this is that I will be unable to sleep tonight due to all the caffeine and able to catch up on the work I have missed.

Catching up post

2010-01-04T14:16:00.008-05:00

Thanks everyone for your comments on my recent projects. I did not get to finish my tree skirt. It seemed pointless since we decided not to have a tree this year. My husband had to work over the holiday on ten hour shifts so the kids and I had a week with my Mum and brother and his family over Christmas. Maisie and I shared a room, occasionally with the Boy as well. Since then, she has been plastered to my side. This is the first break from her I have had and as much as I love her, I really need it!

I tried on the teal jacket yesterday and the fit is not too bad on the altered side. I will mark it, change the pattern, then sew it as is. Having some distance from it makes for a much more objective opinion.

Maisie received some Dora the Explorer slippers for Christmas. Here she is the first night after receiving them.

I made another hat for Maisie for Christmas, utilizing the time being driven to Niagara to embroider.

It uses the same basic pattern I made for the owl hats, but I didn't add the straps.

Maisie here is dressed up in her new fairy costume and turtle neck with some funky tights and her new hat (pre-tassels). There is alot going on here even before you add in the silly faces!

WHOOO doesn't love an Owl (Hat)?

2009-12-22T16:20:00.004-05:00

I have been making these felted wool knit hats for a local boutique. Here is Maisie modelling one of them for me.

I purchased the knit at a great price and felted (or fulled) it in the washer/dryer.

The applique is in a wool felt and they are lined in polartec. The ears, braids and tassels are in a doubly fulled batch of the knit. Less stretch to it, but less chance of it pulling apart.

Teal Jacket, post 2

2009-12-18T00:18:00.004-05:00

I am not liking this.
I have it all stitched and seams pressed. I was looking large in this so I put the side darts in. Still looked large, so I have made the darts even larger. Still not in love with it.
I am going to go the collar or edge trim and go back to the fitting. I don't want to overfit it. I have the sleeves cut and stitched, but not pressed. If I need to take it in any more I might need to change them so they have to wait as well.
The collar pieces are separate from the main body, unlike most shawl collars and they enormous! I will not be cutting them from the correct fabric yet. I want to muslin this separately to see what I will do.

On a more pleasant note: Maisie made me laugh today. She found a piece of black fur in the studio, picked it up and started calling "Blackie? Blackie?" as if it would answer her. Blackie is one of the cat's names. As much as I pretend not to like the cats I would never turn them into fabric!

Another teal jacket

2009-12-16T10:42:00.005-05:00

I am working on a version of this jacket-Vogue 1147. I started it mainly because I needed some of the leftover fabric to make a custom ordered hat, like this one, but smaller.

The teal is a boiled wool/rayon blend. I want it to be like a sweater, so I am not sure if I will line it. I may not even add the collar on this one. If possible I would like to develop this into a TNT pattern and make several different versions of it.

In order to cut it out, I first needed to make a muslin. The measurements of the finished garment on the pattern envelope looked close, so I cut out a size F in a wool that I found too scratchy to use. The only alteration was that I shortened the length above the waist by an inch. It fit around at first, but wasn't flattering. I really looked like I had a barrel body.

The back is cut for a lot of curve to it. As a pear shape, I don't have as much bulk above the waist as below and not as much curve to my back apparently.

I pinned out the amount I thought it needed removed from the back and tried it on again. There still seemed to be a lot of excess under my arms and through the waist. As a plus size I am always glad to have something go around, but this as just too big through the waist. The bust was good, although not defined. The back did not dip into my sway. Both aspects are fine. I want a looser style, but still shaped somewhat to my curves. The pattern has a one piece side front and side back and I thought I would like the A-line shape in there. I played with all fitting seams, then finally added a dart where the side seam would be. It extends from just below the armhole, getting deeper toward the waist, then tapering out to the hemline again. This forms a more fitted sillhouette, but is not tight in any way.

At this point I have the teal cut out and the dart marked. I am going to leave it unsewn until the rest is together and have a look at what is needed in the actual fabric. It might be fine without it since every fabric acts differently.

Trying to show comparison

2009-12-15T11:10:00.003-05:00

I took these before I finished the last few. All are embroidered and now I need to decide if I will be adding any more at top or bottom. I might just add a trim to the bottom edge and get it done.
Hmmm, there is that attitude coming through again!

Christmas Tree Skirt

2009-12-13T17:09:00.005-05:00

I designed this tree skirt last summer and put it aside since I had so many other things to work on. Then, of course, I was in a rush and just wanted to get it done when I finally had time to work on it. However, I have learned my lesson in this area before. I did my basic satin stitching around the applique design of holly and ribbon, then let it ferment for a while while I thought about it.
Here is the basic stitching. The "ribbon" is in a deep red velvet, although it looks much darker in the photos
Two sections out of six showing how they will line up.

This is what I added after waiting a while. On the right there is a lime-ish green added to the top edges of the holly and the brown stem joining the brances. I am not sure if the pictures capture it, but it makes a big difference in real life.
This is the basic layout with all six sections. You can see that I haven't completed all the secondary stitching on all sections yet.
I will be adding rhinestones in red to form the berries. I just hope it gets done in time for Christmas.

Finished the Oireachtas season

2009-11-25T22:46:00.003-05:00

Well, the last custom dress was shipped yesterday and arrived in Pennsylvania today. I did not hear from the clients, so either it fits and they were off to the "O"or it doesn't and they were rushing for alterations. I am sure you can imagine which I would prefer.
Today, while th eadrenaline was still flowing, I made a dozen Christmas stockings and completed a tree skirt for a local gift shop. I always have lots of velvets and sparkly laces left over from the dresses. This year I was determined to finally put them to good use. They turned out really cute. No photos though.
Next up are more items for the next show on December 5th. Tomorrow-hats and cleaning up the studio.

Another dress completed

2009-11-01T21:29:00.004-05:00

This dress turned out very pretty. I cannot take much design credit as the mom and dancer drew it up and picked out many of the fabrics. I had to make a few changes so it would be workable, but they did most of it. The first pic is in incadescent lighting and shows the colours better.

The flowers on the skirt are digitised. I had a few left over so I made brooches from them. You can see one on the cape in back. For the peplum I embroidered the flowers out on a metallic silk. The base is white velvet over a layer of cotton fused satin. The flowers were cut out, then satin stitched down on the velvet. The peplum was then backed with satin and edged in a silver satin stitch. The silver is very subtle in the dress. I don't love it but the dance mom does and that is what counts.

I think the curly ruffle is cute. This is the first time I used straight grain fabric instead of bias for that type of ruffle. I did a three thread rolled hem edge over 30 fishing line using embroidery thread in the looper for a bit of sheen. There are three ruffles in a very sheer white organza, so I treated them as one to make them more opaque. I gathered them together, first using the pleating/gathering foot, then by using a thread to pull them in more. It worked just as well as, if not better than the bias type. I will use this technique again.

Satin Stitch lattice

2009-10-31T00:31:00.011-04:00

I photograph a lot of my sewing to document the inner construction. I have recently emptied the camera so I am posting various techniques of the most recent Regionals season. For this embroidery I consulted the talented Summerset. She uses a lot of lattice in her wearable art pieces so I asked for some advice, which she graciously provided.

Lattice satin stitch all-over embroidery

The pattern is on left. On the right is a tracing on reverse on right. Again I have used a satin fused with cotton interfacing for the base, with the upper fabric in a cotton velvet. The darts are marked on the bodice and thread traced through all layers.

I sewed on the pink applique at neckline to have an end point for the embroidery. Sometimes you end up with a gap otherwise. The straight stitching lines follow the grid. This stablizes the layers and shows where to stitch.

Keeping the line straight to do the stitching was a challenge for me. I wanted to stitch at an angle. I also found it better to stitch over the straight line with the line being just covered at one side by the stitching. If I tried to centre it I got crooked.

I did not go through the dart area because I wanted to do as much as possible in the flat. I left one square blank on the side of the dart and then finished the stitching once the darts were sewn.

The stitching in flat nearly completed. I kept missing areas and would have to go back to them.

The darts are sewn, the fused satin was trimmed away and the dart was catchstitched open.

Dart is sewn and the gap in embroideryshows. It looks like my lines match up-Yay!

Stitching complete, but the bodice hasn't been trimmed to size yet. This dress is still in production, so I will get some pictures up once it has been completed.

Reverse applique tutorial

2009-10-29T21:57:00.011-04:00

Sometimes it is easier to do large chunks of applique in reverse. The fabrics cut slightly larger than needed and are laid down on the top. They are then straight stitched from behind and trimmed to shape. The technique works especially well with blocky shapes. Finer shapes require more finicky cutting.

Here is the pattern on the left. On the right is the design drawn onto the back of a piece of interfaced satin. I use this as a base for the applique. I have used a soft yellow to enhance the warm undertone tone of the white used in applique.

Pieces of fabrics are laid on top and stitched from behind following the design drawn onto the under fabric. Depending on the fabric, I will often use a spray adhesive to hold the fabrics in place. The gold sequin is called "mirror sequin fishscale". The sequins actually overlap like the scales of a fish. It is a pain to work with, but is spectacular under stage lights. I always wear safety glasses when using this fabric.

I used a co-ordinating teal velvet and metallic silk with the coral and gold, all laid on top, stitched from behind then trimmed away. This way you do not get texture show-though onto the uppermost fabric.

The white design was done in positve applique. The design was drawn onto a stiff interfacing, cut and spray glued into place. I basted it down before satin stitching the entire design in a fairly robust satin stitch. The finer design lines dictated a different technique. Doesn't the stitching make a huge difference?

The dancer wanted lace sleeves. This Guipure lace is heavy, so I added it after the rest of the work was done. The teal fabric under the lace also forms the upper teal applique.

The final product. In case you are wondering, that really is a solid block of rhinestones in five sizes and two colours glued down the centre front of the bodice.

Silk Scarf

2009-10-07T17:51:00.004-04:00

I had a layer of water soluble embroidery stabilizer that was starting to dry out so I thought I would use it to make some scarves. This one is orange/fuschia shot silk cut into rectangles and laid out in a brick pattern with some big spaces. I stitched it vertically and horizontally using a mixture of sewing thread colours. It seemed a bit plain so I couched some yarns down on top.

The spaces I mentioned are important. The one I did previously did not have them and looks stiff and heavy. Notice that I have no photos of that one. I lightly sprayed some 505 Fabric Adhesive on the length of water-sol and placed the silk on it, then layered another piece of the water-sol on top. I didn't want to use too much spray in case it marked the silk. For the first few lengths of stitching I had to be very careful because the top layer was loose, but it was OK after that. I might spray glue the water-sol on both sides if I try it again, but it wasn't easy to wash out and I need to give the scarf another soak/wash to get the rest out.

The fabric really seems to shrivel up with the stitching. The scarf is much shorter than I had anticipated.

Fabric Score

2009-09-28T14:33:00.004-04:00

While picking up some basic bridal satin at my local Fabricland store I saw some fabrics that looked nice. Fabricland is not known for its "nice" fabrics, so I had to check it out. An entire table was labelled as Pink Tartan overstock. Pink Tartan is a Mimram enterprise- the people who brought Club Monaco and Joe Fresh into existence. It looked, felt and smelled like wool and was only $9/m so I purchased 2.5m.
Once it was home, I snipped off a bit and did a burn test. It had difficulty catching fire, smouldered and went out quickly and left a soft ash, no bead. Sounds like wool to me!
On the other hand, a purchase made from a well known US mail order fabric store of 100% Merino knit brought me a synthetic blend. I will still use it, but am disappointed in that one.

Pleated clutch bags

2009-09-21T17:49:00.004-04:00

I purchased some leather from FabricMart Fabrics recently and needed to make some bags from it. It wasn't a large skin so I could only get one bag and some trim from it.

I used Vogue 8527 view C for the first (the leopard one), then modified it for the all leather one.

I couldn't fuse the leather or the laminated dots got really dull, so I used 505 spray glue to attach hair canvas to back the leather. I cut it to size, then trimmed out the seam allowances after it was sewn.

The leather bag closes with a magnetic snap.

The leather bag is a basic clutch, while the leopard bag has a zipper and strap. I used a leopard rhinestone to trim the leather and made a leather tassel for the zipper pull.

The pattern went together really easily. I wouldn't hesitate to use the pattern again.

A Morning off work

2009-09-16T14:34:00.004-04:00

I took the morning off and brought Maisie to the Children's Museum today. She had the most fun in the first room we entered. There was a stage, lots of musical instruments and some costumes. We had "tea" in two other areas.

Maisie as a dragon

Funky Red Riding Hood

Searching for eggs to bring as goodies for Grandmother.

The ottoman in our living room has three babies perpetually sleeping on it.

What makes an artist?

2009-09-11T16:52:00.008-04:00

I attended a seminar yesterdayabout applying for a grant from the Art Council of Ontario for their "Artists in Eduaction" project. I found myself hesitant to say what I do, afraid they might tell me I don't belong.

Is it art?
Is it craft?
Is it something unrelated? Engineering, perhaps? Some form of technology?

When you ask my kids what their Mum does, my son replies "She sews" and my daughter says "Make dresses." I do do both of those things.

I also measure bodies, pattern make, draft, drape, fit.
I analyse body shapes to determine the most flattering lines, while trying to keep up with the ever changing whims of fashion.
I make designs for the structure of the garment, then change it depending on body shape, style of movement and need of the individual it is commisioned for.
I create artwork that is applied to the garments, then apply it, embellish it, analyze it for line, balance, flow, change it again.

Does this make me an artist? A technician, a craftsman? All three?

It isn't straight forward art, pure and simple. It is too practical for that. I have heard description of art as something with no practical purpose and craft as something useful.
A friend claimed that art does not need to be well made, but craft does.
Anyone have an opinion on this topic? Please feel free to share. I would love to know what others think.

2nd attempt

2009-09-07T15:25:00.004-04:00

Some very soft and girly colour choices. These are much closer in value so shouldn't be as distracting. The girls/dolls/princesses will be holding hands like the kind you fold and cut out, but in different dresses.

The multi coloured floral stripe will not be in the quilt, but might become a Roman blind, so I would like the colours to coordinate. The pale pink paint swatch is on the fabrics in the first and third photos.

Maisie really doesn't want to move, so she is being bribed with a new bedroom where she gets to help with the choices. She is a bit of a tomboy, so I am surprised at the direction this is taking. Ballet lessons and peer pressure from the other girls at daycare are having an effect.

While I was blogging...

2009-09-06T18:07:00.009-04:00

While I was writing the previous post Maisie emptied about 4 vials of beads into a business card holder, which she called a couch. I guess it IS kind of couch shaped. Here she is with her brother picking up the ones that ended up all over the floor.

ETA: While I was blogging this entry she scotch taped the faceted ones to my OmniGrid ruler at 1" intervals. Do you see the piece of boning on the floor beside the card holder? It HAS to be there (as in "I NEED IT MAMA!"). That is her "puppy leash" for her imaginary puppy. I wish we didn't lose the imagination we have as a child.

Random is hard to do well

2009-09-06T17:42:00.014-04:00

Cute is easier though (for some, anyway).

Maisie in her new Mama-made jammies.

I have been tring to make a quilt with princesses on it, loosely based on this quilt from Pottery Barn.

I have fabrics in the colours I would like, but want them in long strips randomly forming the horizonal lines. Random is not easy to get right. I cut three different widths (3.5",4", 4.5") in various colours and cut them to slightly different lengths at around the one third mark

I sewed them in a dark/light order in groups of four. It wasn't until after I had them sewn together that I realised I needed one more block each to be able to stagger them. I had to cannibal-ize the strips to get the width I needed. The pictures ended up all wonky, but they really are straight. It was hard to photograph without standing on a chair and I don't want to do that in front of Maisie. She copies everything.
This is what I ended up with in the few hours I had today to sew. I think I am coming down with the flu, so I had a nap instead of doing any more.

ETA: in retrospect, I think the bars are too busy. The focus should be on the princesses, so I will redo it. I have gifts to make for two friends who recently had little girls, so I think this might become a pair of stroller blankets.

Labels and felt

2009-09-01T21:13:00.006-04:00

Cleaning up certainly has it's benefits. I found my woven labels, which have been missing for about 4 years. I just assumed I had run out. Surprise! There are a lot left in all three colourways.

Aren't they pretty!? They are a two tone woven brocade background with the business name in a Celtic font. I am so glad to have found them again.

The labels are shown on top of some wool felt squares I purchased. I have been selling things of on Kijiji and someone paid me through Paypal. I don't have an account hooked up to Paypal, so I get to spend the payments! The wool was very flat compared to the textured fabrics I usually use, so I washed them in the machine. They have a lovely slightly bubbly texture now.

Getting better

2009-08-07T16:44:00.004-04:00

This is probably the best it has looked in a LONG time! I stopped counting how many of the clear plastic leaf bags of stuff that went out the door. The local chapter of the Canadian Embroiderer's Guild received two bags of scraps and a bag of tearaway pieces and the daycare got about ten bags total. I stuck my head in the office at the daycare today and it was pretty tidy, so they dispersed it quickly.

The dresses I make for the dancers are almost all custom made, so they each have a paper pattern made with a design drawn on in pencil, then traced over with a black sharpie. I don't need the patterns, but keep them for a while in case the dress needs to be altered or if there is a question from the purchaser, who might live anywhere in the world. Well, a "little while" turned into years and I bagged up and filled three leaf bags with patterns alone. Now the kids at daycare can colour, cut or paint front bodice panels and side skirt panels and sleeves to their heart's content!

The rest of my house looks amazing. No clutter anywhere! Of course, this means you can see how much the trim needs painting, so that will be the weekend's chore.

Not proud

2009-07-29T15:56:00.003-04:00

I have started the sorting, which will be needed before packing the sewing room.

This is what it looks like right now. Yikes!

Moving

2009-07-28T16:54:00.001-04:00

Everyone seems to be moving. We have decided to jump on the bandwagon and move as well.
This involves a whole lot of cleaning up and clearing out. Not much time to sew right now.

Backs, basting and beads

2009-07-17T16:11:00.005-04:00

The bodice with some shadowing in a metallic thread. This isn't quite gold, isn't quite silver.

Pinning the layers over my leg. The curve of the leg builds in a little bit of curve in the bodice for the turn of cloth.

Ready for flat basting. You can just see the excess created in the top layer. This is something that I learned to do years ago at the theatres. I still have an urge to pick up the piece while basting. I remember being told that "It is called FLAT basting for a reason" by the first hand. At my table someone would call out "Flat!" in a low flat voice occasionally to remind me. I have done all these panels and it took 'til I got to the back panels to think that I am doing it right finally.

A local bead store is going out of businesss. I got a ride there after Maisie's ballet class and bought some things, but didn't have any samples with me. The white ones are too white, but I like the size. The silvery/gold ones aren't bad and I will be trying them. I also have a soft creamy gold piping basted on right now. Still not sure though.

Here are the beads I bought. Maisie insisted on the purple. The fish are for my son and his friends (there are more). The purple and green reminded me of my sister. Everything was between 30 and 80% off.

Seams and edges

2009-07-13T14:34:00.007-04:00

The dress has suffered a few indignities and is coming along. I have sewn the centre panel to the side panels about three times in order to get a smooth seam. I piped them initially but didn't like the effect. I have used a silk on the side with the same 1/2 layer of quilt batting, then overlayed with lace. I had to take them off a second time to add a layer with interfacing to give it a bit more body.
The batting is used to cover any unsightly bumps created by the boning, which will go into the lining layer. I don't have any corset coutil so I am using a firmly woven cotton.

The neckline edge (and the layers of all the other edges) have been basted to allow for the turn of the cloth. This will allow the fabric to go smoothly over the curves of the body. Do you see how the neck edge turns under just slightly? This is so that it will look smooth( see below) once it is sewn and the edges are actually turned under. I will either pipe or bead this edge.
The seams have not been pressed yet, but the seam allowances are notched, clipped, trimmed for bulk and catch stitched open to keep them smooth.

The seam on the right side of the picture has been sewn open, the left side hasn't been stitched yet. They have not been pressed yet.

Design

2009-07-10T13:15:00.005-04:00

Original thumbnail pencil sketch drawn out on the back of a junk fax. Gotta do something with them.
On the left is the design that I used. On the right is the first attempt, showing areas that were changed. The negative space on the right isn't as pretty, the heart shape in the centre is too wide, the flow isn't as balanced.
The stitched bodice panel, using a metalic silk base, backed in a soft fusible layered with 1/2 layer of quilt batt and a layer of tulle (thanks to Summerset for the batt splitting and tulle advice). The piece has been cut quite large so it can shrink with stitching.

Applique

2009-07-10T13:07:00.006-04:00

The mesh fabric used for the centre designs of applique was a hard one to cut. It is made from metallic threads and is quite wiry. I had to treat it different than regular fabric. It is also very open, so no adhesives or sprays were usable. You couldn't feel the stickiness through the mesh, but any adhesive would attract dirt and threads through it.

The Mesh is laid over top of the area, which had previously been drawn onto the
The lines are stitched, using a small stitch and the excess is trimmed away.
Applique basted down but before satin stitching.

Satin stitching, keeping the area not worked on rolled out of the way. You must be careful not to fold it. Folding results in creases.
I find it easiest the stitch the outer (convex?) curves first, the inner curves tend to distort if stitched first.

Say yes, part two

2009-07-10T00:09:00.003-04:00

I am experimenting with a crushed velvet for the applique using a design I worked on last winter. I like it so far.

The bodice pattern is just visible beneath this silk

The applique design resembles the design on the lace.

The silk is turned 45 degrees in order for the piece to fit on, so the lines in the silk will be vertical in reality. I love the textural contrast of the velvet with the silk and lace. It is a rich look. I am excited to see how the velvet makes into piping.

Say yes to the dress

2009-07-09T16:33:00.006-04:00

I love the show "Say Yes to the Dress" . I have always loved bridal and have been thinking about getting into it again, so I am going to make a wedding dress.This is to be a sample for a wedding directory. I hope it all works out because I really don't need a wedding dress for myself.

This is to be from stash as much as possible and it seems like I have a fair sized selection.

Here are some samples of silks and brocade. Uppermost is a gold/silver mesh.

Blurry close up of the Celtic brocade.Pearl hammered silk, recently purchased from www.fabricmartfabrics.com and a lovely embroidered soft tulle.

The same lace draped over my sewing chair.

While digging out some of theses fabrics I found a piece I hadn't seen in yonks. Linen, embroidery, quilting, beading, space dyed silk velvet and silver trim all addded up to this bodice. I made it years ago as a display at a Celtic art gallery. I called it "Tudor meets Star Trek". The lines of it seem off to me now, but it got a lot of business for me in it's day.

What to do for a hobby once your hobby is your job?

2009-07-04T01:02:00.005-04:00

Sew, of course!

I love to sew and I need to create. It is a difficult thing sometimes. I have just finished another very busy spell where I haven't had any time for myself and very little for family or friends. What do I want to do? Head to my studio and create. Work on new (to me) techniques, play a bit. Does hubby understand? Not at all.

Here is my latest hobby attempt.

I have decided to learn to do free motion quilting/embroidery. I realize they are two different things, but similar. I am starting by making a cushion top by Gabriella Verstraeten featured in Machine Embroidery magazine's first issue. I think she is probably a wonderful teacher. This article has many different skills to use/master in one item. There is applique, precise cutting and looser cutting. satin stitch, free motion on larger areas and tighter areas as well as double needle stitching and using the "fancy" stitches on your machine. I am using a straight stitch only Husqvarna Mega Quilter, so I don't have all of the options.Look at the difference in stitching on the pink in the upper corner and then to the right. This is where I took the foot off.

Things I have learned:

I tend to press on the foot lifter bar and thow off my tension.

You need to remove the presser foor and leave it blank and/or use the darning foot. What a difference in control. I should have known this, too. Just in a hurry I guess.

Faster speed means more control, but in my case tends to break more thread.

Purple often photographs as blue.

I know I have a lot to learn, but I think I will like this new technique.

Things from my Washer

2009-06-23T11:27:00.007-04:00

Chistmas stocking
Large marble
Tank
Ski Pass
Four yellow foam dots
Chain from a fibre art piece (shoudl still be ON fibre art piece!)
African elephant
Silver bit
Orange thing
After Bite pen

I know I am making excuses here, but I have been busy. I have been working days and then from about 8pm -12 or 2 am depending on deadlines. I usually do not have many orders in July and need to make up for that in May and June in the leadup to the North American Championships. Then I get to relax a bit and only work days.
The end result is that I have not been emptying pockets before I load the machine. Now, I am sure I wouldn't forget if I were like Marjie and had nine kids. I have only two and so am missing 7 kids worth of practise.
I did about 5 loads of laundry yesterday to try to catch up. These items were all collected from the bottom of the washer in one day. The orange thing is a Polly Pocket's doll skirt. I haven't figured out what the yellow foam dots were from yet. I notice that there is about $1.25 missing from the top of the dryer. Also missing are the Kleenex bits that went right into the garbage and a black cat, who didn't go through the cycle, but managed to get in when I wasn't looking.
Maisie collected rocks in the boy's school yard on the way to daycare this morning. I better be sure to check the pockets of those purple shorts.
Anyone else care to share what weirdness (or volume of things) they have found in their washer?

My New Favourite

2009-06-22T20:50:00.003-04:00

Done and gone-winging its way to Pennsylvania as I write. I think it is my new fave. The dancer has red hair. I hope she send photos of herself wearing the dress. The headpiece was gold with black velvet fold over elastic wrapped diagonally to mimic the piping at the neckline, sleeve edges and bottom of the black skirt panels.

Almost as exciting (to me) as getting another dress finished is my new hook on the studio's french doors. No more hangers adhered to the wall with packing tape!

Stoning

2009-06-21T12:54:00.006-04:00

Just another quick little post about rhinestones. Look at how much they enhance the look of a dress! They end up being a design feature in their own right.

The first picture has the bodice front on the left showing the embroidery with stoning started and on the right is a sleeve panel before any sewing or stoning. What a difference!
The second photo shows the dress pieces laid out before sewing has been completed. I ended up taking it all apart, lengthening the bodice by an inch and shortening that gold sequinned lace pleated panel by an inch to improve the proportions. Altering an already stoned dress is not the easiest thing in the world.

I like to use a variety of sizes on the dresses. This one has both AB and crystal in stone sizes 20, 30, 34, 40 and 48. I have added far more since these photos were taken, so will try to do an update later on.

Sources I have used and like include:
http://www.rhinestoneguy.com/
http://www.suessparklers.com/
http://www.johnbead.com/

A Hosta Takeover

2009-06-20T15:03:00.005-04:00

We have a tall, narrow, East facing 1920's brick house on a long narrow lot with a plenty of mature trees. Our frontage is only 33' and that includes half of a driveway (we share the drive with our neighbours). On the South side the neighbour has very tall cedars that form a fence between our properties. His tiny yard has a large-ish maple centered in it. We have a large-ish deciduous tree in ours as well. The tree canopy blocks any rain from hitting the ground. As a consequence of these feature we have a tiny yard that is perpetually dry and in shade. Not surpisingly, we haven't had any luck keeping grass growing there.
Last year we planted hostas. Little tiny hostas from dividing the ones I had as well as a few that a friend brought over (along with 10 bags of soil and some muscles) for my birthday. We dug up an "L" shape that goes along the stone pathways and built up the soil.
This year a neighbour brought over a few wheelbarrows of mulch he didn't need.

(The above picture was taken from the driveway, so you can imagine how small the yard is.)
Another friend donated the large hosta from her own garden. Last year it was a single leaf. Look how well it is doing!
The grass still isn't doing well, despite the wet weather. Maybe next year the entire yard with be hostified! Who needs grass anyway?

For Gail

2009-06-15T12:11:00.003-04:00

The dress just before shipping. It made it to Ohio on time and was worn on Saturday.

Saved?

2009-06-10T17:38:00.006-04:00

Sometimes you don't discover a goof up until it is too late. The motif in the first picture looks a little large for the scale of the design and the size of the dress, but the bodice was already sewn together and ready to put onto the skirt. I added a lot of crystals to the knotwork on the applique. I am not sure whether it was a save or not.

Also, the hearts on the sleeve look like the have antennae coming out of them. Ooops! Some crystals will distract from that though.

Thank you Gwen!

2009-06-08T12:17:00.004-04:00

Gwen of All My Seams has given me this award. Thanks so much Gwen! I have enjoyed seeing your projects along the way and really appreciate your comments and support of me as well as so many others in the sewing blog community.

I am going to need to get back to this one though due to some computer problems.

Rules:

1) Accept the award, post it on your blog together with the name of the person who has granted the award, and his or her blog link.

2) Pass the award on to other blogs that you’ve newly discovered. Remember to contact the bloggers to let them know they have been chosen for this award.

Wow- thanks Ann!

2009-06-08T11:49:00.009-04:00

I would like to give a big Thank You to Ann for giving me this award.

I am going to name just a few people, but there are so many I could name. I am not sure if any have received this one before, so sorry if it is a repeat.

Carolyn - An enthusiastic sewist who takes the time to describe her processes, answers questions and isn't afraid to point out the odd "Ooops" moment

Wendy- who sews a LOT and does a little bit of everything.

Angie- who blogs about her kids, books, TV and work as well as sewing.

Attitude of Gratitude - The Rules of Accepting and Sharing this Award
1. Put the logo on your blog or post
2. Nominate a few blogger's that show an attitude of gratitude
3. Link to your nominees within your post
4. Comment on their blogs to let them know they've received this award
5. Share the love and link to this post and the person who nominated you for the award.
6. Tell us how you've come to have an attitude of gratitude

I have an Attitude of Gratitude because I have a job doing something I love that supports my family. I am grateful to all the bloggers who share their projects and their challenges. Also, I am so grateful for my family. I have a couple of great kids who keep me busy and keep me inspired with their creativity and enthusiasm.

New Book and Old Quilt

2009-05-26T17:50:00.005-04:00

I had to search through my messy studio this weekend for a fabric to alter a client's dress. In searching, I came across a quilt top I had begun for my son long before we were even hopeful for Maisie. He has been using a pieced quilt top with dinosaurs on it for about six years. Bad mum that I am, I didn't even quilt it. Instead I made it into a duvet cover. Well, at eleven he is a bit old for dinos anymore. He had seen this one in progress and claimed he didn't like it, but that was years ago. To be tricky, I shook it out today and pretended to be folding it when he came in from school. Immediately he asked "What is that?"
" A quilt top" I replied.
"Who is it for?"
"I don't know yet, probably Maisie." (who gets everything, in his opinion) "Why? You don't like it, do you?"
"Yeah, yeah yeah!" jumping up and down, with his hands in front like a little bunny.
Had I asked him if he liked it, the reply would have been "Not really."
This works out well for me and for the little guy in line for the dino blankie, who has almost outgrown dinos himself already!

Also, below if a GORGEOUS book that came in the mail today. I love William Morris designs and this is filled with beautifully interpreted applique versions.

Spring Flowers

2009-05-24T12:05:00.006-04:00

Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic had a post yesterday that brought home some feelings I have been having. She discusses using books to get better at sewing. I LOVE books. I love magazine, I love tchniques and am curious about many things. I realised years ago that I was reading rather than doing, so I tried to change that. Then came marriage and babies and other obligations. I stopped sewing for myself for a while. I sewed for work, but not for pleasure.
In the last few years I discovered Stitcher's Guild, Pattern Review and blogs. So many blogs! But again, I used them as I had previously used books. I read them rather than doing. With my husband's illness and inability to work, I have had to add more hours to my work week. I feel like I never leave my basement studio. I need to change that somehow, even if it means part of the time I am down here I am doing something for me.
So I have decided that I will try to do something for fun, for skill development and not for profit, everyday if I can.
Here is the most recent attempt: fabric flowers. I can't get outside to enjoy them much so this will be my replacement for now.
Ribbon Roses
Using a technique from Threads , number 64, article by Camela Nitschke.
Bias Roses
Top left has satin back shantung flower and leaf is silk dupioni, on right is metallic silk with ribbon leaves.
Bottom flowers are satin, acetate on left and polyester on right.
I am sure my skills need imrovement, but they are fairly quick and the results are cute from the start. Just what I need right now.

This is for KBenco. Here is the box from the ruffler foot that fit my Janome MemoryCraft 4000

A Great Haul!

2009-05-23T19:14:00.003-04:00

Today was a perfect day for yard sales. We took the kids out and just wandered the neighbourhood. This is what we bought at the first place we stopped, about 1/2 block from our house.

A woman was selling her mother's goods. Her mum had moved and this stuff was stored in a basement and/or garage for the winter. I first asked a bout these rulers and some crochet hooks. The hooks she decided to keep, but asked $10 for the patterns, rulers and the sewing machine. I need another machine like I need a hole in my head, but for $10 I had to take it. It is on my porch right now as it isn't terribly clean.

Doll clothes patterns, embroidery transfers, needlework booklets and rulers (and a cat, but she wasn't included in the sale).

The machine is in a nicely shaped wood cabinet. It is motorised, you can see the pedal and cord in the first picture.

Does anyone know what exactly I have here? Could it be valuable?

It only does straight stitch. I am going to try it out tomorrow and see if it works. I figured the cabinet was worth more than $10 even with the finish so roughed up.

My kids got my camera again

2009-05-22T15:47:00.002-04:00

The many faces of Maisie.

Frantic

Profile

Mad

Trying to look mad

You can't see me or the popsicle stain on my chin!

We also have an elbow series.

2009-05-22T10:56:00.001-04:00

I miss my waist. I went to the dietician today with a food diary. I have been trying to control the insulin resistance with diet and it isn't working. I might need to go back on medication. I miss my waist enough to consider it, although I would prefer not to.

Oh, my aching feet!

2009-05-16T11:26:00.007-04:00

Heart-ache that is!
I use a Husqvarna Mega Quilter for my daily sewing. It only has a straight stitch, has a longer than average bed and a really high lift. I love it. It is as close to an industrial as I need for power and but I sometimes feel a little too basic with it. I read blogs and reviews and there are a lot of discussions about various feet. I decided to try some but most of the feet I would like to try are not available for it so I will have to get feet for another machine that is not set up for daily use. It is a Pfaff 1522 and I want to get a binding foot, a ruffler and an elasticator.
I have been to two local sewing stores. The first, closest and my favourite is only a few blocks away from me. I can walk there. They suggested I bring in the machine but, since I do not drive, this isn't easy. They do not sell Pfaff machines there but they carry some feet for other machines. I purchased a ruffling/pleating snap on foot with the arrangement that I could bring it back for credit if it didn't fit. Well, it didn't fit. I will have to go back today.
They sell Pfaff at the other machine store. It is a 20 minute drive away, so we need to pack the kids in the car and have DH and both kids wait while I go in there. I told them what machines I had and asked what they suggested. After some discussion we decided to use the Pfaff and I bought a snap on elastic foot.
I didn't have a chance to set up the other machine for a week or so. Finally I had time last night. I opened my little bag and found a low shank binding foot. So now we need to trek back there for another long visit which I hope will result in a successful outcome. They are not known for their excellence in customer service at this establishment.
Wish me luck! After this I might just stick with a straight stitch and serger!
ETA- Better news! I called up and they explained that a low shank will work and that they were out of the snap on. However I don't want to use a screwdriver to remove the shank everytime I want to change the foot. They are going to try to order a snap on and we will go grom there. If worse comes to worst I can get a thumb screw for that shank.
As for the ruffler, not only does it fit on my Janome, but I was looking through some old Threads magazines that Mum gave me and the first one I picked up has an entire article on using a ruffler foot! This dreary Saturday is turning into a better day than I had thought.

Wearing the Jackets

2009-05-13T16:56:00.003-04:00

My sister and mother came for a visit today. I asked my sister Meg took some pictures of me wearing both recent jackets. The good part about this is that she is interested in flattery and not just getting it over with. She would say things like "Put your chin down" and "You need lipstick"

This is with my recent black denim trousers and the new handbag Mum and Meg brought for my birthday.

Close ups wearing both jackets. I like the tweed one better than I did before

Vogue 1100 completed

2009-05-10T13:10:00.004-04:00

Showing saddle stitching

The hemline shows a bit. I usually don't do anything to emphasize a horizontal, but I might add two rows of stitching to hide my pressing mistake.

The neck seam shows at CB on the hanger, but dh tells me it doesn't while being worn. I cannot see it, so I have to trust his word on that.

Teal Tweed

2009-05-08T12:50:00.002-04:00

I haven't stopped work on this jacket, but it won't be wearable until Fall now, so I haven't been frantically trying to finish it

I put one sleeve in as per the suggestions here and love it. http://2bsewing.blogspot.com/2009/05/another-butterick-5223in-works.html

I put the other one in the usual way and will have to re-do it. Guess how I will be doing it the second time?

Vogue 1100 Jacket Progress

2009-05-07T10:57:00.010-04:00

I have cut this jacket out of a wool blend from Timmel Fabrics. I did not know how it would act, but it presses nicely. It has a nice drape, which I wanted to keep so I used PRO-TRICOT FUSIBLE~ Interfacing from Sew-Exciting. It fuses nicely and adds body without changing the hand much.
The measurements given on the envelope made it look just a little snug in the bum for me, so I added to the side seams. I cut a 16 in the shoulder and neckline, coming out to an 18 at the side seam. From there, I traced off the same shape side seam as the pattern, but swung out to just a bit past the size 20. It is plenty big in the hips now. I have found that keeping the same shape side seam in a looser style such as this gives a better result than trying to keep the waist small and swing out at the hip/bum.
I had planned to top stitch and edge stitch as desribed in the instructions, but am contemplating doing a saddle stitch in this buttonhole twist I found. I would likely wear the jacket with the charcoal jeans I just made or with black so I don't feel I am limiting my choices like this. It will be a new technique for me. You can see I have basted the edges of the CF and collar, but have machine top stitching on the pocket flaps. I changed my mind after doing the pockets.

Isn't the wooden spool cute?

ETA:

I started the stitching and LOVE the look! I was going to use tiger tape, but it looks OK like this. Perfection is for robots.

New plans- Keeping it simple

2009-05-05T11:39:00.003-04:00

While I have been turning into a pasty mushroom in my basement, Spring weather has snuck up on us. I have discovered that I have one pair of jeans as my only pants. I have a lot of winter trousers and cropped pants, but no other Spring appropriate full length pants to wear.
Today is supposed to be a work day, but I plan to think about work a lot (an important aspect of designing) while I make another pair of jeans. I have two pair cut, fused and serged and I am going to wear one of them tonight!
I am also going to cut out a jacket (Vogue 1100)and fit a t-shirt pattern this week. Big plans!

Update- the charcoal denim trousers are complete. Hook and bar, hem and everything!

The jacket shell is cut out and basted for fitting. I still need to cut the lining though.

The Best Laid Plans...

2009-04-21T20:48:00.010-04:00

I have been very busy with work sewing. Many of the fabrics we use need to be ordered from overseas and the already long ship time can be further delayed by Customs. I am not complaining about paying duty or taxes on these orders, but the delays can make deadlines difficult. The actual sewing time diminishes while the deadlines remain the same and I end up in a rush at the end.

This is the sleeve of a dress I have been working on. I took these pictures to show the difference a little extra line gives in emphasizing the under/overs of the Celtic knotwork. It looks much more finished, doesn't it?
I used a similar knotwork design on the skirt. The area was much smaller, but I wanted to maintain the scale, so I removed the two loops on either side and changed the shape slightly to fit into the background shape better. I made 10 little petal ends like this, got the dress together, sat back to admire the cohesiveness of the design...

...and YIKES! the tip of each skirt end had a horrible little smiling skull face on it!

Below is the sketch, now picture it in white on black.
Can you see it?
Just imagine the horror I found as I prepared to package this up to ship to a sweet little dancer!
I will have to remake the skirt before I can send it and, as I am already behind, I will need to stay up most of the night to do it. Ouch!

Easter Dress

2009-04-12T15:08:00.009-04:00

Maisie with Boy. I don't make him much, so he doesn't get much air time here.

On Easter Saturday, as Maisie was being readied for bed, she reminded me of the promise of an Easter dress. I had embroidered out the bunny (from http://www.emblibrary.com/ ) on a leftover piece of cotton already. It was supposed to be a practise stitch out, but I found another piece of the fabric and had enough for a pinafore style without sleeves. The bodice is a from pattern I used for my now 14 year old niece, but no pattern pieces remain. (Yes, I have had UFOs for that long.) I used a full width of the cotton for the front and another for the back, dividing the scrap in half to determine the length.

I found a strip of acetate satin bias for the neckline and decided to use bias to finish the armholes as well. I had cut a lining in satin ( I don't remember why I chose satin) and used it to underline the front section. I should have just lined the bodice as I would have gotten to bed a lot sooner.

The design looked like something was missing and I thought I would embroider some flowers by hand on it but the design was too dense to get a needle through. I gave up and added a little green satin ribbon bow and did a row of green stem stitches under the bias at the neckline to make the colour look a bit more cohesive.

The dress is really a sleeveless jumper and the top underneath was a birthday present from Nana. The tights were a gift from my sister and even though they all came from disparate sources, the end result looked pretty put together.

On Easter Sunday morning, after the egg hunt, we all got ready to go to Church.

As we walked up to the church we saw the sign with the new Mass times, realized Mass was about to let out, and just kept walking around the block and home again. It was our own private Easter Parade!

Vogue 1098

2009-04-09T13:37:00.006-04:00

I realized I hadn't put up pictures of Vogue 1098 yet. The repair on the lining went fine. I like the big oval buttons. Round buttons on a voluminous jacket (on my voluminous body) just didn't seem right.
I made a few changes to the pattern, but no major alterations. I cut it about 3" longer than the pattern. in a straight 16 for the upper chest/shoulder area, increasing to an 18 at the side seam. It is large and I could have done a straight 16. The back has a lovely flow with the extra width.
The sleeve alteration took about 1 1/2" (3/4" each side) from the sleeve at the seam where the centre joins the "cuff" seam, tapering up to nothing at the shoulder curve. It is still quite a large sleeve.

I am now working on the sleeves for the teal tweed jacket. They are cut, onse seam sewn and lined to edge. One has been quilted already. I basted the tweed, machine stitched it and have hand sewn the lining up, so it is ready to set in. I have just begun the quilting on the other sleeve.

I looked at beads for on the trim, but I don't want to decorate it so much that I feel self conscious wearing it.

Trim

2009-04-08T10:05:00.005-04:00

I decided to stick withthe suede look fabric. I like the texture of the suede. This way I can make a coordinating skirt from the crepe and not feel too matchy-matchy in the jacket.Channel stitching in variegated thread

Facing sewn on

The pockets are a maybe and are just pinned on in these pictures to figure out placement. I might trim the top edges like I did the jacket edge. I don't like to bring the eye down, so usually avoid things on my hips. They are large enough to call out for attention on their own!

Bad Timing?

2009-04-07T17:27:00.005-04:00

After waiting forever for the wool crepe from Fabric Mart, I received an email from them saying that the package had been returned and to check the address. All was correct and they shippied it out to me this time, instead of my sister in the US.
In the meantime I found a synthetic suede in a good teal and cut that into a edge band. After I backed it with a layer of lightweight quilt batting, I bagged the outer edge, using silk organza as a facing. Once it was pressed and the edge compared to the jacket for size and shape (which has a clean finished edge already, doh!) I channel stitched it with a variegated cotton embroidery thread in a 30 weight. It is a subtle effect, but noticeable when close up.
At about the time all this had been done, but not yet sewn on, the doorbell rang. Of course, it was the package from Fabric Mart containing the teal wool crepe and of course, it was a perfect colour match for the tweed. Now, what to do? I have a band faced and stitched, which I like, and 5 yards of coordinating crepe.

Quilting

2009-04-01T12:18:00.003-04:00

The lines are about 2 1/2 to 3" apart. I used a 9 sharp needle and regular Gutterman sewing thread. I looked for hand quilting thread, but couldn't find a colour that was close enough. I have never hand quilted before, but I used to do a lot of hand embroidery and hand sewing for work. The wool is very lightweight and soft and stitching through it was easy. It was a bit harder to do through the areas with interfacing.
Wendy- I didn't use tiger tape, but I did stitch it from the top side. There is a tiny tattersall design in the weave and it gave me lines to follow. It wouldn't be as straight without following that weave.I used the pattern in the weave and tried to get 5 "sections" in each. That isn't five stitches, but 2 overs/3 unders and the reverse.

Catching up on 24 and quilting

2009-03-31T17:06:00.003-04:00

It sarted during Franklin, a cartoon about a turtle ,at 8:30 and went on through 24, last week's 24, House and about 20 minutes of my husband flicking around, but I got it done. I have the body of the jacket hand quilted!
The rows are about 2 1/2" apart and the stitches are smaller than the ones I used on the edge and seams. I cannot get photos to show it, but will try again later in stronger light.
I am still contemplating trims. No fore runners though.